
Saturday morning and no hangover. You can't beat that! First on the agenda today: the
Philadelphia Museum of Art. A very pretty, very
gigantic place (seems to be the standard in Philly).
There was lots of other nice stuff, like armor and swords, and rooms from churches and mansions, and stained-glass windows and sculptures and very old paintings. Of course the subject of every pre-1700 painting was Jesus or his immediate family, which can get kind of oppressive. But what are you going to do? Go look at the Asian art, I guess.
The 20-Century collection was kind of goofy, but good paintings in any case. Picasso and Dali and whatnot. But the Contemporary Art collection was just damn funny. Let's see, they had the obligatory Warhol (something from the store pasted on something else from the store), a big photo of a mock-up of a bunch of Soviets who got slaughtered by Afghani troops (oh how sad, the poor helpless BLOOD-THIRSTY COMMIE INVADERS got snuffed by the simple mountain-folk they were trying to drag into their EMPIRE OF OPPRESSION), and a circle of rocks on the floor. Yeah, a circle of rocks on the floor. Several somebodies are laughing all the way to the bank.
After finishing up with the art, we headed downtown for more museum action. The Mütter Museum of freakish human body parts, to be specific. According to our sources, this place is a repository of polydactylic extremities, deformed skulls, and defective fetuses. Cool, eh? It took a while to find it, what with the one-way streets and all. When we finally got there we found out they wanted something like 15 bucks for admission. Since we were already nervous about leaving Graham's car on what looked like one of the most auto-thefty streets in Philadelphia, we decided to skip this one. There's always rotten.com for deformed fetuses, right?
On to our way out of town we stopped at Pat's on the south side [ed: Way, way out on the
south side. It was in strange part of town where the streets had been turned into some kind
of outdoor market that I've never seen the likes of. Ah, how wonderfully wonderful is the
diversity of our wonderful country, or something]. The bartender at Dock Street told us
it was the best place to get cheese steaks. That's certainly possible because they were
pretty damn good cheese steaks. Greasy and tasty and stuff. So after we ate we drove to
Baltimore.
Graham's dad lives in Baltimore, or more exactly in Ellicott City (home of the Linda Tripp
trial). We were a little early so we went over to the
Ellicott Mills Brewing Company. Graham
and I both had pints of the obligatory märzen, and a dunkel. These total clowns came in,
looked around, and ordered glasses of wine! Why do you go to a brewpub to get wine [ed:
The only things worse to order in a brewpub are a white wine spritzer, Zima, or bottled
water]? People baffle me.
We didn't want to have too much to drink, because we knew we were headed out to Fells Point.
So after the two beers we went to Graham's dad's (hereafter to be called "Scott") house. Scott
showed up in short order and gave us a tour of his new basement. Evidently it was all dirt
before, so he excavated it and turned it into a furnished basement. With a hardwood floor,
glass doors and a wine cellar.
We didn't hang out very long, as we were evidently due at the home of one of Scott's friends.
We drove to this guy's house, where some sort of party was in progress. The adults were all
out back where four taps were set up in the garage, with four different homebrews on draft!
We had märzen, dunkelweizen, pilsner, and get this, cask conditioned ESB from a hand-pumped
tap. Anybody who keeps his homebrew on draft is pretty damn cool to begin with, but I think
having your own cask conditioned ale and beer engine launches you into the stratosphere of
wicked-badness. Scott has some cool friends.
Well, Fells Point beckons. It's a very old harbor in Baltimore where they have an insane number
of pubs. And they film "Homocide" there, or something. We started out at Duda's Tavern. Graham
and I had these K-rad burgers with weird cheese and Scott had a mean-looking steak. We sampled
some local brews at Duda's. Graham and I had pints of Clipper City Octoberfest. I also had a
Lancaster Strawberry Wheat, and Graham had a DeGroen's Märzen (or as one of Scott's friends
calls it, "Mother's Milk").
Next stop: Max's on Broadway. With over
100 beers on tap, this place is not to be trifled with.
It's kind of like Taco Mac here in Atlanta, but with more of a dank pit atmosphere, and of
course they have beers over 6% A.B.V. These chicks were supposed to be meeting us there
(unbeknownst to me at the time), but they didn't show up. I mention this only because Graham
is dating one of them now (I know, he lives here and she lives in Baltimore, and, oh he can
explain [ed: Um, er, yeah. Her name is Tracey, and you can see pictures of her
here. Actually, I'm moving in with her in about a month. So, yeah,
that about explains it]). So anyway, we moseyed up to the bar and got a few pints of
Red Hook
Hoptoberfest. Scott and I lit up a couple of Tony Borhani Bahia Golds [ed: I don't know what
this means] from the adjacent tobacconist. I think I may have had a big plate of nachos, but
details are sketchy [ed: Yes, he did have a plate of nachos, for no apparent reason, since we
had just eaten. I have no idea what got into him]. I do know that I had a Pyramid Draught
Pale Ale (nitrogen-tap) and Graham had an Anchor Old Foghorn barleywine. I wanted one of those
too, but the booze was starting to have a palpable effect [ed: as evidenced by the
aforementioned nachos fiasco] and I figured I needed to pace myself, 'cause we weren't done
with the pub-crawl yet.
A brisk walk found us at The Warf Rat. Very nice dank going on there, kind of salty and crusty.
The Warf Rat is an outlet for one of the local breweries, so we had a lot of unique stuff to
pick from. They had a hand-pump, so we all went with pints of the cask conditioned ESB. We had
a mildly coherent discussion about music, focusing mainly on the Beatles and Filter [ed: Dad's
take on Filter: "Too much screaming." Old people are funny]. Graham and Scott caught up on
family news, and a good time was had by all.
On the way back to the car, we passed some guy playing a Prince song in a doorway. Actually, it
may have been Prince himself [ed: Or maybe Freddy Prinze, Jr., teenage hearthrob and star of
the hit blockbuster "She's All That and a Bag of Chips"]. That would seem about right. We made
a pit stop on the way back at the
Baltimore Brewing Company,
where we split a pitcher of
DeGroen's Märzen. And, that's about all really. Baltimore is cool.